Shoot the Moon – How to Photograph the Moon

The Moon Photographed at 300mm, lizmasoner.wordpress.com

The moon when properly exposed with a higher shutter speed than you would normally use at night. 1/500, f 5.6, ISO 400, 300mm, manual focus

Time to fess up. How many photos of a tiny blurry white blob do you have? How to photograph the moon is a topic I am asked about over and over again and I see many more photographers dealing with a deluge of the same question. So how do you photograph the moon? Basically, forget what you think you know.

You think the moon is a nighttime photo opportunity. Thinking of the moon like this automatically sends you looking for ways to let more light into your camera. This is a huge mistake! To stop getting blurry white blobs you need less light, not more.

The Moon is Like a Lightbulb

Think of the moon as a lightbulb in a darkened room. Your camera thinks it needs a lot of light to photograph the bulb because most of the surrounding room is dark when in reality the camera only needs a little light to capture the detail of the bulb. This is the same as the moon. The moon is very bright compared to the surrounding sky. So when your camera’s light meter takes a reading it is trying to even the exposure across a small bright object and a large expanse of black sky. The result is a very over exposed moon. For the vast majority of moon photographs, you’ll need to underexpose by anywhere from 1/2 stop to a full stop based on your camera’s exposure meter.

For most moon shots (without foregrounds to contend with) you can shoot with a shutter speed of 1/350 or so, making a tripod optional if you have a steady hand.

Example of Overexposed Moon Photo with Camera Shake

If you trust your camera’s meter, you will almost always overexpose your moon photos. And lack of a sturdy surface creates camera shake. This is also the size that the moon will appear in your frame at 300mm (depending on your camera’s magnification factor).

Get as Close as You Can

Moon Photographed Through Telescope, lizmasoner.wordpress.com

The moon, photographed through a cheap $40 telescope fills the frame (although the telescope turns the moon upside down). 1/90, f 5.6, ISO 400, 55mm

When the moon first appears over the horizon, atmospheric conditions cause the moon to look substantially larger in the sky than it will appear higher in the sky. Use this to your advantage to capture a larger image of the moon. For most shots of the moon by itself, you’ll need a minimum of 300mm to create a photo that can be cropped with decent results. For cameras with only “x” markings instead of mm markings, this will probably be around 10x as most compact cameras use a base lens around 28mm or 35mm.

You can also photograph the moon through a telescope to increase the size of the moon in your frame. You can either purchase a telescope that allows a camera to be attached directly, or use a smaller lens and shoot through the eyepiece. It is a bit of balancing act to get the camera lined up through the eyepiece but with a bit of practice it is an very inexpensive way to increase your magnification capabilities.

Consider the Rest of the World

Moon With Landscape, lizmasoner.wordpress.com

The moon, photographed with a valley in the foreground. 1/350, f 5.6, 70mm, ISO 400, manual focus


All of your moon shots don’t have to be the moon all by its lonesome. Include foreground items to all a lot of interest to your photos. But remember that you’ll need to expose for the moon, not the foreground. Using a graduated neutral density filter is a great way to reduce the light from the moon and sky while still capturing more light from a dim foreground.

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